Perhaps your new favorite bean dish:
Precious vegetables from the sea … “Passe Pierre” or “haricots de mer”, as this vegetable is often jokingly called in France, comes almost exclusively from the coast north of Normandy, between Le Touquet and Le Treport.
At low tide, the algae-like plant is laboriously cut from the salty soil by hand in a stooping position with a small kitchen knife. It grows at the edge of the sea, on the tidal flats, in former salt marshes, the depressions in the ground where the sea water was dried to produce salt, and sometimes in stony shallow water. The plant should not be higher than about 10 cm when harvested. One person can harvest a maximum of 50 kilos per day, and the total annual seasonal production is about 10 tons.
The best season for “Passe Pierre” is usually from mid-June to mid-August. During this period, the salt-loving flowering plant is bright green and without flowers. Unfortunately, at an advanced age, the interior becomes inedible hard, then you can use only the tips of the shoots.
“Passe Pierre” tastes like a delicate mixture between asparagus spears and young beans. Blanched for only 50 to 60 seconds in soup or very briefly sautéed, a delicate addition to all fish dishes – the vegetables are already salted by the sea! But just as cooled with a little bit of lemon and olive oil or raw as a leaf salad, the sea bean is an exceptional dish.
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